On November 24
th Megz and I flew to
Naples, Italy with another good friend of ours, Roni for a 4 ½ day holiday in the coastal Italian city.
I can sum up my thoughts of the city of
Naples in one word: DIRTY!
It was the most disgusting city I believe I have ever visited…and what a shame because the area around it is home to many popular and beautiful tourist destinations and the city would have so much potential were it not for the filth and its reputation for mafia-style crime.
However, we’d already been warned about the ways of this city; so, plans were made before we even left Switzerland to make it our base for sleeping and travel each day to somewhere exciting and beautiful in the surrounding area.
On our day of arrival we found it a challenge (though not such a large one) to find our hostel and secure our belongings. We managed to cross several streets without being hit by crazy drivers and entered Hostel of the Sun, which is rated one of the best in the world. The hostel itself was quite bright and cheery, a nice contrast to the city outside. We locked up our stuff and headed out to see the few things on our to do list for Naples and grab a bite to eat. It became increasing apparent, even in the first few hours, that going anywhere or doing anything in this city was going to be difficult! I’ve been used to watching my back and my bags on other trips but this one brought my paranoia to a whole new level…We did manage to find a suitable restaurant and escaped the chaos for about an hour and at 6PM we’d had enough and decided to skip a night on the town for a quiet one back at the hostel playing cards. This was, perhaps, the best decision we made the whole trip! In the process of sitting around and chatting with random people we met Wil! He ended up being our travel buddy for the remainder of the trip…we just couldn’t get rid of him…hehe…Seriously, it was nice to have him around and to have some new stories (I’ve already heard ALL of Megz’s…hehe…j/k Meggie!!)
On day 2 we decided to go out and see the ruins of the city of Pompeii, destroyed by the volcano-Mt. Vesuvius, and also take the bus to the summit of the volcano and look down into the crater. This all proved to be a harder than we imagined it would be. The ride out to the city of Pompeii was easy enough but the train was dirty and long. We bought our tickets to go up the volcano on a bus and the bus come at the scheduled time or for nearly two hours, so we wasted time sitting for a bus at the stop. We aren’t used to that…living in Switzerland has spoiled us because things work on time here and if they don’t you get a notification of it so you can make other arrangements.
The ride up the volcano was on a very narrow and curvy road, and we were in a charter-style bus, so you can imagine the motion sickness and nervousness that were had on the drive! The bus doesn’t drop you off right at the crater. Instead you must do a 25-30 minute semi-hike to the summit. It was a refreshing walk and actually just felt like any other mountain hike. It was such a cool feeling for me to look down into the crater of an active volcano. Especially Mt. Vesuvius, which is the only active volcano on the mainland of Europe and quite possibly the most famously known worldwide. You aren’t allowed into the crater so we walked all along the rim and from there you can see out into the Bay of Naples, to the city of Naples, and in the distance you can just make out the ruins of Pompeii. I’m even pleased to say that there were some fumes coming out of the crater…it was really cool!
After a good bit of time at the top and a look at souvenir shops and such we headed back down to the bus and the ruins at Pompeii. As it turns out, the entrance to the ruins closes quite early because they are so large. So, the closing of the park is something like 6PM and the last entrance in is at 3ish. Therefore, we couldn’t get in for the day when we arrived back at 4:30ish…there was a lot of disappointment amongst our group, especially because we felt we’d timed it perfectly but the Italian transport system was to blame; however, we formulated a plan to fit in Pompeii another day into our schedule of activities for the remainder of the trip. Instead we took the horrible train back into Naples and enjoyed a lovely dinner together.
On Day 3 we decided to take advantage of the lovely, and warm, weather and so we set out on a boat across the Bay of Naples to the famous Island of Capri. It was lovely. The boat ride was just over an hour and we sat out on the upper deck the entire time. Sun shinning and wind blowing…it was perfect! As we drew nearer to the island I could make out the outline of the beautiful landscape and the houses built straight up from the sea.
We’d hoped to see the Blue Grotto while we were there, it’s a famous cave over the most spectacular shade of blue water. The opening is only about 3 feet high so you either need to swim in or go in these really small boats.
That was the plan, but the seas were not agreeing with us. Apparently the waves were just too choppy and so it was forbidden to enter the Grotto on the day we visited (next time…DEFINITELY!!) Instead we took the funicular up to the city of Capri (a very expensive little town) and then a bus to the other side of the island and visited the town of Anacapri, which was lovely with winding streets and cobblestone pathways. It is exactly as I imagine paradise to look. We bought our food at a tiny grocery store and ate one a bench in the middle of the town just taking in our surroundings.
As we sat there the weather took a turn, it because very overcast and the clouds drew lower to the little island. We decided to head back to Capri. We walked around there for only about an hour and then decided we’d seen all we cared to for the day and headed back to board the next boat home. I guess we’d walked too much, because all four of us fell asleep on the way back! This time we sat inside as it was a good bit colder on the top after the sun set!
When we arrived back in Naples we decided to go eat a restaurant that was being recommended to us from all angles, both at the hostel and a top pick in my guide book! This place, called Di Matteo, is said to the best pizza in the entire world…even former President Clinton ate there while attending a G7 summit in 1999. It was excellent. Though I can hardly say it’s the best in the world…I can definitely say I don’t believe I’ve ever had better pizza in my entire life!! It tasted wonderful and the best part about it was how inexpensive it is…I think my pizza cost 4 Euro and it was overflowing off the plate!
On Day 4 we had a mission. So many things to see before we flew home but we were told it wasn’t possible to see them all in one day so we decided we had to do it just to prove them all wrong! First things first, we wanted to return to Pompeii for round two of let’s-try-to-see-the-ruins-today.
This time we got up super early, leaving the hostel before 8, and gave the train a miss…we opted instead for a bus trip which proved to be quite relaxing and calm. We made it to the city and were among the first in. I don’t honestly know what I was expecting to see but the ruins at Pompeii blew my mind. I guess I thought we’d rock up to the volcano and see a lot of desolation around it and then a few roman columns or something like that. But no…it was a full sized city with modern day living built up all around. We could have spent a whole day in there and not seen everything listed to see.
Instead we opted for the highlights. We saw the plaster molds made from the people who died in the eruption, famous frescos from the walls of houses in the city, temples to their god’s and other things like that. I guess we spent about 3 hour total wandering around.
What came to my mind immediately was that I was standing in a city that is famous for no other reason than being totally destroyed…totally destroyed by the eruption of Vesuvius in 79 AD. Who were they? What were they doing on the day they all perished?? Going about their everyday lives, I suppose, and quite possibly having no idea of the amount of danger they faced. Now days we have such amazing technology which can predict an eruption, and, to some degree, how large that eruption will be. I am told that Pompeii was partially destroyed by a massive earthquake a few years before the eruption and that is why the ruins look as unfinished as you see them today. It is reported that a lot of the people had left Pompeii because their property was destroyed in the quake and they did no return…I guess you could say that earthquake saved their lives! Things to ponder I guess. The absolutely amazing thing is the whole time we were looking around the ruined city we saw the volcano that caused its destruction looming over it in the background...ever a threat!
Next on our whirlwind day we wanted to see part of the Amalfi coast. There are several cities dotting this coastline just below the Bay of Naples, but in my mind the Amalfi Coast will always be Positano. This little town is featured in one of my favorite movies, Under the Tuscan Sun, so I knew I MUST see it! We took a bus to get there from the town of Sorrento and it went around some huge curves along a ridge above the coast. At a few points in the journey looking out the window was looking down straight into the Mediterranean Sea! Positano was definitely everything I thought it would be. The film was true to life and the scenery, landscape, and beauty were all as I’d seen them on the big screen. I tried to imagine Diane Lane filming there years before and my head was lost in a world all its own: a place of romance and beauty.
Late in the evening, after seeing all we’d set out to see, the four of us made our way back from the beauty to dirty, dirty Naples. We had a dinner date at the hostel. The people who work there, real Italians, had offered to cook everyone a pasta meal complete with a wonderful red wine. How could we pass that up? There must have been at least 20 people, maybe more, in the room for the dinner. It was nice socializing and meeting new people, even though we were leaving the next morning.
We woke really early the next day to get to the airport. I’m happy to report that we had no problems getting back and actually no major problems while we were there! Even given its reputation, I guess we all have to admit Naples was good to us. It gave us a place to rest between our days of adventure and an opportunity to meet fun, new people. I definitely want to go back to this area, though I think I’ll stay in Sorrento or on the Amalfi Coast next time; I want to make another attempt at seeing the Blue Grotto on Capri, spend more time wandering around the ruins of Pompeii, and definitely explore some of the other towns on the Amalfi Coast.
So sorry this post is really long…I tried to shorten it but there was just so much I wanted to tell you all about. I hope you enjoy the pictures and I’ll be working to get the others uploaded to my photo site soon.
I love you all!
LuLu